By: Alina Cepeda
Creative Director Oliver Rousteing has reimagined Balmain by choosing Air over Armor.
Just after completing his Spring/Summer 2026 main line on October 1st, Oliver Rousteing showcases his Menswear collection titled “Continuum” at the Intercontinental Paris Le Grand Hotel. Being shown with no audience, Rousteing draws meditative inspiration for a new sense of Freedom for Balmain.
Rousteing explains while he first began to manifest the new concept, “I was in my free place. I meditated every day on the beach..Somewhere I can see the landscape, see the sky.” This is evident when you see the statement of pieces of seashells draping over satchels, beads that resemble meditation beads made into blouse pieces that still tie into the military feel that Balmain is known for. The freedom from the flow of clothing, combined with the structure of the shells you see on the front of the chest, almost serves as a chest plate. Shells also adorned the sides of the sleeve compared with the bag to add a personal touch of where he went to draw inspiration.
Rousteing expresses his newfound sense of peace over his 15-year journey of overseeing creative direction. “Newness is not what you see, it is how you are.” He gives the message that to see the change you want, you must be the change. He allows himself to be grounded in the different elements in the world, with the earth and sandy tones through the collection. With the robe draping form many of the styling has, it’s evident he drew inspiration directly from the meditative robes you might wear in temples.
This collection also includes rope belts that have been woven intricately in order to seem like they hold the fabric together. He incorporates fringe satchels with his relaxed silhouettes that promote elegance and opulence but in a more boho, meditative state of mind. He also uses materials and details with leather blousons, wide mesh knits, and various robe-like materials to give the Airy feel.
This is unique because Balmain is usually so used to its structured militia silhouettes; it’s a groundbreaking change that Balmain is making a complete turnover in its feel for the brand. It adds a softer feeling, expressing that over time he has found peace in different forms and is choosing to put his emotional armor down and let his hair flow through the air of self-discovery after a decade and a half long journey. He titles Spring Summer 26 as a “Continuum of emotions” for that very reason.
